Trip report: The Canadian train

The shining silver carriages of The Canadian sit on its platform in Toronto’s Union Station. The train has been plying the route between Canada’s east and west for over 60 years, operating twice a week in both directions between Toronto and Vancouver, and now it was awaiting my arrival for the first branch of its journey from Toronto to Winnipeg on the Prairies of Manitoba.

An overview of train travel in Canada

The Canadian

For such a vast country, Canada’s rail network is fairly basic. While the main eastern cities of Quebec, Montreal, Ottawa and Toronto are well connected, the remaining lines run to Atlantic Canada and Halifax, from Winnipeg to Churchill, and from Jasper to Prince Rupert in British Columbia. The Canadian is therefore the only direct east-to-west route, and passenger services are certainly lower in terms of priority to the lengthy double-level freight trains which control the tracks all around the country.

When travelling from one side of the country to the other, many travellers opt to break up their journey by stopping along the way in the likes of Winnipeg, Saskatoon, Edmonton and Jasper, before jumping back aboard when the next train comes through three days later.

First impressions of The Canadian

Glass-domed carriage on The Canadian

Armed with my ticket, my taxi dropped me off at Union Station, adjacent to the magnificent façade of the Fairmont Royal York, built as one of the first and finest railway hotels and twinned with many of its original Fairmont cousins in the west of Canada. The main hall of Union Station is impressive and designed by the same architect responsible for Grand Central station in New York.

With no large suitcases to check in for my journey halfway across Canada to Winnipeg, I made my way to the Via Rail lounge (reserved for Sleeper Plus and Prestige Class travellers) where you are greeted and welcomed into a comfy lounge with coffee, snacks and ample seating. From here, you are called forward individually to be allocated your lunch and dinner sittings depending on the duration of your journey.

Around 30 minutes prior to departure, the awaiting masses are called to the train, reached via the central hall and then down to the platforms which sit below the station. A proud sign beckons you to the correct platform where you are directed to your specific carriage, where a steward sees you aboard.

My cabin, still in its original 1950s livery, was cosy with two recliner seats during the day and an en-suite bathroom. Outside was an adjacent shared shower, and then a short walk to the lounge cars, dome viewing carriages, and dining cars.

The journey from Toronto to Winnipeg

Restaurant car on The Canadian

Just a few minutes later, the train departed Union Station and slowly made its way out of Toronto, passing through the sprawling suburbs and out to the flatter farmlands and woodlands that were first settled inland from the banks of Lake Ontario. I couldn’t help but think of my relatives who travelled to Toronto in 1904 and then took the same train route to Winnipeg to set up a farm on the Prairies. The scenery gradually transformed from fields to forests and then to a more swampy, lakeland terrain as we progressed through Ontario and its national and provincial parks.

After settling into your cabin, you are treated to a welcome glass of Champagne and canapes in one of the lounge cars, one of which features a staircase up to the domed viewing car. This was a real highlight, offering panoramic views along the length of the train and out to the sides.

View from The Canadian

In terms of stops there were just two on this journey, one in Sudbury Junction and another at Sioux Lookout, both for around 15 minutes – just enough time to stretch your legs and get some fresh air. In the case of Sioux Lookout, you can connect with the station Wi-Fi, as there is none on board the train itself, and by this time a number of travellers were getting a little jumpy without their information fix.

The day was broken up nicely with three meal sittings, with a good menu and wine list, with a choice of three starters, three mains and two desserts. Soft drinks were complementary and alcoholic beverages were charged.

Throughout the day the cabin steward hosted activities ranging from specialist talks to wine tasting one afternoon, and beer tasting the next. There were also movies to watch and games to play for those who didn’t want to just sit and watch the world go by. Whilst at dinner, the cabin is transformed into a comfortable two-bunk sleeping compartment where you can stretch out and get some rest while making your way across Canada’s ever-shifting landscapes.

Final thoughts

The journey from Toronto to Winnipeg was supposed to take around 35 hours in total, however the steward informed me that anything up to two hours late on the long distance trains is deemed “on time” by Via Rail. After a mechanical issue and several freight trains having to pass us on the Ontario-Manitoba border, we eased into Winnipeg station after 41 hours having experienced one of the most iconic train journeys in the world.

The transcontinental journey from Toronto to Vancouver for those staying on board still takes four nights, as did the original journey of the 1940s. However, the train has been operating in its current silver form since 1953 complete with dome cars. Finally, I disembarked in Winnipeg after just two days and one night, very much impressed by the overall experience and already looking forward to the next adventure.

The Canadian: Toronto to Vancouver by rail

The classes

Prestige Class

• Gourmet meals and bar service (including alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages)
• Private washroom with shower
• Flat-screen TV with a selection of movies, TV programs and music
• Cabin cleaning service including a change of the bedding upon request
• Reserved seating in the Park car, Panorama car and Dining car
• Access to the Skyline and Renaissance car
• Activities such as wine tastings and interactive talks on local history, geography and culture

Sleeper Plus

• 1 small piece of carry-on baggage
• 2 large pieces of checked baggage
• Snacks and beverages (non-alcoholic)
• Meal service
• Lounge access
• Washroom and shower access
• Cabin cleaning service including a change of the bedding upon request
• Access to the Skyline car, Dining car, Renaissance car and Park car

Economy

• 1 piece of small or medium carry-on baggage
• Access to an electrical outlet
• Access to the Skyline car