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29 May 2025 by Matthew Grubb
A self-drive around Puglia offers a perfect balance of some of the greatest things that Italy has to offer. From 18th-century Masserias to jaw-dropping baroque centres and mesmerising waters across from Greek-like whitewashed villages, the wide range of contrasts creates a fascinating picture by the end of a multi-centre trip around Italy’s heel.
Lecce: The Florence of the south
A few minutes walking between the city’s many piazzas and intricately designed basilicas quickly answers any questions as to why it is referred to as the Florence of the South. The centre is characterised by gold-coloured stone buildings in an overtly baroque style. Two days getting lost in its side streets and churches is reason enough to visit, but Lecce is also a perfect base for wine tasting, or perhaps an aperitif or culinary experience in a nearby masseria.
Streets of Lecce
Baglioni Masseria Muzza & Otranto
Baglioni’s resort near the southern tip of Puglia is surely the most luxurious way to explore this part of the region. Its uniform whitewashed buildings match the original 18th-century masseria, enclosing spacious rooms, outdoor sitting areas, a saltwater pool, a spa and a bar and restaurant with splendid sunset views over the nearby lake.
The hotel runs a regular shuttle to nearby Otranto, a less-visited but fascinating contrast to many other towns in Puglia and Italy. White low-rise buildings flank narrow cobbled streets, often filled with bars and restaurants, creating a feel reminiscent of a small Greek island. As Italy’s easternmost town, Otranto combines charming traits with history in the shape of medieval castles, a cathedral and a fort, making it a very pleasant place to spend an afternoon or evening.
Sunset at the Baglioni Masseria Muzza
Canne Bianche & Masseria Montenapoleone
If your journey starts inland – perhaps in Lecce or Matera – then arriving at the luxury boutique Canne Bianche Hotel gives a perfect contrast and an instant feeling of relaxation by the sea. Part of Small Luxury Hotels, the hotel’s 49 rooms, bar and restaurant, and its spa are housed within a very charming boutique building, with traditional designs mixed by maritime inspirations to really accentuate the surroundings and atmosphere. There is no beach club, but such is the proximity to the sea that there are steps down to a small sandy beach just metres from the hotel pool. Unsurprisingly, the seafood-based menu is a highlight, and the charming village of Torre Canne is less than two miles away.
Entrance to Canne Bianche
It has been suggested that traditional farmhouses or Masserias are synonymous with Puglia, as well as the experiences available at them such as wine tastings, beautiful gardens, food workshops, and more. Just over 3 miles inland from Torre Canne, and still with views of the sea, is the enchanting Masseria Montenapoleone which allows guests an authentic flavour of these different highlights of the region. Set among more hilly terrain - a contrast to the flatness of much of Italy’s heel and the olive groves and vineyards that cover it - it has much of the charm and also solitude of a luxurious rural Tuscan farmhouse, but with the unmistakably Puglian white-washed style and traditional design. With vineyards, friendly and attentive staff, carefully restored and redesigned rooms, and plenty of public areas among acres of gardens with countless different flowers, herbs and and plants (some of which are fundamental to their wellness programs), it is befitting of the most special of occasions.
From these two properties, the UNESCO-listed postcard-perfect Alberobello and its famous trulli houses are reachable within half an hour’s drive. This is a must-visit in Puglia.
Wine tasting at Masseria Montenapoleone
Polignano a Mare
Many of the activities and excursions mentioned, as well as boat trips and food tours, can all be undertaken from Polignano a Mare, which is reachable from the previous places mentioned and an even shorter drive from hotels in Fasano and Monopoli. With a beach and more of the aforementioned whitewashed stone buildings across a mix of shopping promenades and winding alleyways alike, it is a lovely town to visit. However, if conditions are right then the lasting memory is the views of the sea, where turquoise waters stretch out away from the land before meeting a darker, deeper blue which then spreads across the horizon.
Views of Polignano a Mare
