The quiet old town of Kep, which was once the resort of choice for Indochina colonialists, when it was known as Kep-sur-Mer, is the place to try peppered crab; the crabs are cooked up with pepper from nearby farms and are best eaten on the beach where you can wash them down with local tik tanaout jiu (palm wine).
The Khmer Rouge destroyed much of Kep, although its crumbling Modernist buildings still hint at its former glory.
Peaceful hotels and small guesthouses are popping up in the town, which is slowly rediscovering itself and is now considered to be one of Cambodia's best kept secrets.
Top places to stay in Kep
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