From Stavanger’s bustling harbour on a crystalline May morning, I bypassed the Preikestolen crowds, opting for a less-traveled path: Flørli, home to the world’s longest wooden staircase and a historic power station deep within Norway’s majestic Lysefjord.

The Kolumbus passenger ferry journey from Stavanger took approximately two hours, gliding through pristine waters as the Lysefjord revealed itself in dramatic fashion – sheer granite cliffs soaring over 1,000 meters, waterfalls streaming down their faces, and occasional glimpses of Preikestolen. Arriving at the tiny, car-free settlement of Flørli, I was struck by its profound isolation and tranquility. Once home to around 150 residents supporting the hydroelectric plant, today fewer than a dozen people inhabit this remote outpost year-round. The historic Flørli Power Station, established in 1916 with construction completed in the early 1920s, now serves as both a museum and café. Inside, original machiernery and photographs document the remarkable engineering feat accomplished in this remote location. The plant operated until 1999, providing power to communities around the fjord.

What draws most visitors, however, are those infamous 4,444 wooden steps ascending alongside the old pipeline. Built for maintenance access, this wooden staircase climbs a staggering 740 meters (2,500 feet) from fjord to mountaintop – a vertical challenge not for the faint-hearted.

After a light lunch at the café, I began the relentlessly steep ascent. After just 300 steps, I questioned my decision, yet the increasingly spectacular views compelled me onward. Numbered markers every hundred steps provided both encouragement and a sobering reminder of the climb remaining. Two hours later, breathless and exhilarated, I reached the summit plateau. The panorama was nothing short of spectacular – the entire Lysefjord stretched before me, with snow-capped mountains dominating the eastern horizon.

The Norwegian value of “friluftsliv” – a commitment to outdoor life regardless of hardship – suddenly resonated deeply. This challenging landscape has clearly shaped a people as resilient and impressive as their natural surroundings. Descending proved nearly as demanding, and I returned to Stavanger that evening tired but deeply satisfied. While thousands had seen Preikestolen, I had experienced something equally magnificent yet wonderfully solitary – a perfect embodiment of Norway’s wild heart.