A colourful stream of pensioners, influencers and honeymooners flows onto the tarmac, melting in the sunshine that washes over us as we leave the plane. Most of us are still long-sleeved and layered, not yet in the Caribbean island uniform of flowy florals. It feels surreal to have come from the damp and dark of our winter to this, and I see my mum’s excited smile falter for a moment as the heat hits her. Is this going to be too much for us?

The volcanic island of St Lucia rises jaggedly out of the Caribbean Sea, its profile defined by the peaks of the Gros Piton and the Petit Piton. It enjoys a tropical rainforest climate with average temperatures in the high 20s and enough sun and rain to coat the whole island in luxuriant vegetation. Each rain shower unleashes a fragrant burst of petrichor from the rich earth that nourishes whole seas of banana plantations, nestled amongst wild forests. Tiny lizards scurry away from our footsteps, and jewel-like hummingbirds flit from tree to brightly-blossoming tree. This visual feast is complemented by an acoustic one – a constant, undulating whistle, which we learn comes from a choir of tiny but determined frogs. It is hard to imagine such a sound fading to background noise, but it soon does. The culture of this island is every bit as colourful as the flora and fauna. Both the French and the British have been colonisers here, and each culture has left its mark. The layering and blending of these influences with the indigenous Carib culture and, most prominently, the African creole culture makes St Lucia feel wildly exotic yet comfortingly familiar all at once. For us, there is an extra bit of familiarity – only two sovereign states in the world are named for women: St Lucia, and our home, Eire.

Calabash Cove Resort & Spa perches on the northwest coast of St Lucia, near to the island’s capital Castries and just over an hour’s drive from Hewanorra airport. With only 26 rooms, it feels cosy and intimate. Although the resort was fully booked during our stay, we were in our own little bubble at all times, and I can see why honeymooners love this place. A stay here feels like having a piece of paradise to yourself for a while. We were greeted with the sort of humour and easy manner that instantly made us feel at home; our first introduction to the sort of casual kindness that you quickly get used to around here. The general manager, Konrad Wagner, made a point of tracking us down for a chat. No easy task with so many peaceful hideaways – were we swimming at the resort’s private beach? Napping in a hammock in the sway of a sea breeze? Or perhaps out exploring the island? But Mr Wagner has adapted to the lifestyle of this island which knows no rush, and caught us at the weekly champagne reception. We were impressed by the genuine interest he showed in both his guests and his staff. While he was honest about the difficulties presented by resort tourism in a former colony, his love for the island and commitment to great working conditions for his staff was obvious.

All meals take place in the aptly named Windsong restaurant which is open to the sea breeze and offers a panoramic vista of the sea and the ever-changing cloudscapes. But watch out – while some of the island’s birds will serenade you during your meal, cheeky Antillean bullfinches will be more focussed on stealing your jam. The food is fresh and beautifully prepared, with a good mix of familiar favourites and local dishes accompanied by a curated selection of international wines. Luckily, Calabash Cove is the only resort on the island that offers unconditional all-inclusive – even lobster is included.

St Lucia is heaven for outdoor and culture enthusiasts alike – small but packed with stunning natural and cultural gems. Thrillseekers can go ziplining through the rainforest, while those seeking a more relaxed experience can opt for the aerial tram tour. Every Friday night, the village of Gros Islet erupts into a street party, with plenty of local food and drink on offer. There are also various culinary workshops available, including chocolate making classes at one of the island’s cacao farms.

A particularly popular option is a visit to the world’s only drive-in volcano to enjoy another speciality of the island: the Sulphur Springs mud baths near Soufrière. The strong-smelling steam which still rises from the caldera may have been off-putting at first, but it was quickly forgotten as we soaked in several hot mud pools, each filled with a silky-smooth silt. After a blissful wallow, we moved on to the next part of the visit – natural body art. The light grey mud from the pools was allowed to dry, and then it was time for us to get creative, dabbing each other with darker mud until we looked like modern art canvases. The day finished with a quick visit to Toraille waterfall to wash off the last of the mud followed by a delicious local buffet at Fond Doux.

I was eager for a deep dive into creole culture, and there was no one better to provide that than Rhyesa Joseph and Marilyn Hyacinth, local cultural advocates and communicators. Our language class quickly turned into an enlightening sociocultural analysis of the island’s past, present and future, and we learned about the creativity and subtle ingenuity of creole (Kwéyòl). Often dismissed as a bastardisation of French, it actually has strong African roots and was an essential tool of resistance during colonial times. The language has recently been made part of the school curriculum; a beacon of hope for the future of St Lucian creole culture.

To get a first-hand experience of that culture, we visited Fond Latisab Creole Park. Located in Babonneau, far from the bustling towns and luxury resorts, it showcases some aspects of traditional life in St Lucia. The owner, Canice Thomas, is passionate about bolstering creole culture by sharing its unique customs and crafts. Our visit included a demonstration of traditional sawing, a crash-course on making delicately spiced cassava bread and an introduction to traditional dances. At the end, we got to join in and learn a few steps to a tune whose lyrics translate as “where the wind blows, the wind blows” – which captures the laid-back nature of the locals well.

With so many activities planned, we were both worried that five days would be much too short a stay in such a faraway land. Time did funny things in our little island bubble though, stretching and slowing in the most luxurious way. We quickly got used to a routine dictated by St Lucia’s tropical climate. The long hours of sunshine would be briefly interrupted by afternoon rain storms which swept in to bring refreshment. For most guests, this was a great excuse for a nap. But as a pasty person with a love of rain, it was my cue to go for a swim. The skies would darken as rain fizzed on the water, but the air stayed warm and when the clouds cleared, the world was filled with a diffuse golden light. Then it was time to lounge on one of the floating platforms just off shore, feeling the womb-like rock of gentle waves. Occasionally, a yacht on the horizon would birth a flurry of jet skis which glinted white against the endless blue where water and sky meet.

I’ll admit that I was worried about sharing a holiday with my mum – what grown woman wouldn’t be? But how often do we get to enjoy an entirely new experience with our mothers, stepping into something exciting and exotic as two independent adults? I couldn’t have wished for a better travel partner. My time in St Lucia was defined by refreshingly honest conversations, all of which were prompted by my mother’s curious and caring nature. Also, how often do we get to see our mothers fully relaxed? On this little island, with a whole team of people dedicated to our serenity and an island-full of experiences to choose from, one Irish mammy got to stop looking after everything and everyone for a while. Our last evening was spent side-by-side on beach loungers. Being in each other’s company had never been easier, and we enjoyed one last glass of the resort’s finest wine as the sun melted into the purple ocean and the tiny frog symphony intensified.