The alternative south island self drive
Published: 17 March 2010
New Zealand specialist Claire Wood describes her perfect ’alternative’ South Island self-drive.
Driving in New Zealand could not be easier. I lived in the South Island for six and a half years, working as a sales rep for the airline Emirates, and was required to drive everywhere. Not only do New Zealanders drive on the left but the roads are safe, scenic and - especially in the South Island - largely empty.
One of my favourite drives is across the Southern Alps from Christchurch to Hokitika via Arthur’s Pass. It takes about three hours and the biggest difficulty is keeping your eyes on the road while surrounded by such incredible scenery. Much of it appears in films like The Lord of the Rings and when I’ve driven it with friends from the UK, they’ve found it hard to believe that what they’re looking at is real and not CGI effects - snow-capped mountains, tumbling waterfalls, beautiful blue skies and no one around.
Self-drive tours of New Zealand are two a penny from most travel agents, and rightly so. You can stop when you want, eat what you want and sleep where you want. You are master of your own destiny. When it comes to the South Island - often acknowledged as the more ruggedly handsome of the two main islands - there are certain inevitables that you can’t afford to miss: Kaikoura, Franz Josef, Queenstown, Dunedin, Milford Sound. All are spectacular, and when woven together create a blueprint for a world-beating holiday. But they only tell half of the story. For those who have the time, here are my ‘alternative’ South Island supplements.
Akaroa
If you’re planning a self-drive tour of the South Island, you’ll likely arrive in Christchurch. We were all deeply saddened by February’s devastating earthquake, which as well as taking lives damaged several of the city’s hotels. There is, however, plenty of accommodation within striking distance of the airport. Clearwater Resort, for example, home of the New Zealand PGA Championship, avoided any major damage and is only a short drive from the city centre.
But for me, a better option is to drive to the Banks Peninsula and to base yourself at Akaroa, about an hour’s drive from Christchurch along the Summit Road scenic route. This sleepy French settlement sits in a picturesque cove on the water’s edge and sees more Kiwi holidaymakers and weekenders than it does tourists. People come for the scenery, the peaceful atmosphere, fine food and great walking. The luxurious, boutique Maison de la Mer would be my top choice of lodging.
Hanmer Springs
From Christchurch and the Banks Peninsula, I’d next head north, veering inland to Hanmer Springs. Like Akaroa, Hanmer is another hidden gem, treasured by locals for the relaxing powers of its thermal springs, discovered in 1859. The modern pool complex may have lost some of its Victorian charm but it’s well worth a visit, and for me greater value than the better-known springs of Rotorua in the North Island.
Kaikoura
The whale-watching capital of New Zealand is hardly an ‘alternative’ highlight but I include it here for its other marine attraction: the chance to swim with dolphins. Several outfits offer multiple trips a day and you needn’t be a strong swimmer to take part, as you’ll float in your wetsuit and life jacket. That said, the more you duck-dive and generally splash around, the more eager the dolphins will be to investigate. They tell you, in fact, to sing songs under water as the dolphins are drawn to the sound waves. I took their advice and soon found myself surrounded by about 30 dusky dolphins.
Blenheim
Continuing up the coast, you’ll eventually reach Blenheim and the famous Marlborough wineries. This region, sheltered by the protective Richmond Range, records approximately 2,400 hours of grape-ripening sunshine a year and is famous for its sauvignon blanc, though it also produces good chardonnay. Like the vineyards further south, such as Canterbury House in Amberley outside Christchurch, everything is geared towards tourists. Tastings are either free or require a small charge, which is often deducted from any subsequent purchases. Cellar-door sales are also available and you can often eat al fresco, surrounded by the vines in the glorious sunshine.
Neslon & Farewell Spit
About the only place sunnier than Blenheim is neighbouring Nelson, a great spot to base yourself for walking or kayaking in the Marlborough Sounds or Abel Tasman National Park. The former is a half-submerged mountain range revealed as a labyrinth of bays, inlets, islands and peninsulas; the latter one of New Zealand’s most stunning national parks, home to the easiest of the country’s Great Walks, the Abel Tasman Coastal Track. The park runs along the coast from Marahua to the eastern end of Golden Bay, whose northern curve culminates in Farewell Spit, a long sandy bar that juts out into the ocean. There’s no denying the beauty of the park itself, but if you’re looking for solitude and extraordinary empty beaches, it’s worth making the pilgrimage to this pristine spit of sand.
Hokitika & the Glaciers
Heading south, this time down the west coast, I’d set my sights on either Punakaiki, home to the aptly named Pancake Rocks, or Hokitika, whose Wildfoods Festival in March tempts daring travellers with possum pate, huhu grubs, wild boar and whitebait. It’s also one of the country’s best places to buy greenstone.
South of Hokitika are the west coast’s two great glaciers, Fox and Franz Josef. Although anything but an ‘alternative’ highlight, it’s worth mentioning the value of pre-booking a heli-hike. Flying gets you right to the most impressive icescapes - caves and crevasses in brilliant white or iceberg blue - without the need for a long day’s trekking. The walking option is made all the less appealing by the fact that the glaciers are receding, so what used to be the car park is now a fair old walk from even the start of the ice.
Wanaka, Queenstown & the Fiords
Next on any agenda would be the lake towns of Wanaka and Queenstown. The more peaceful of the two is undoubtedly Wanaka, gateway to Mount Aspiring National Park on the willow-edged shores of Lake Wanaka. Mountain peaks rise to the sky on every side and are often reflected in the glacial waters of the lake itself. In summer the shores are bright with alpine flowers, while in winter they’re deep in snow.
Queenstown is more lively - there are discounts on bungee jumps for the over-60s - but there are plenty of less daunting activities. Taking a gondola up the mountain is a great option. You can sit in the restaurant looking down on the lake and surrounding mountains as people zip by on the street luge course or run off the cliff-side with microlights. Another option is a steamship cruise to Walter Peak, where a delicious three-course dinner awaits. The night’s capped off with a sing-song around the piano on the cruise back.
You also must get down into Fiordland. I’d recommend an overnight cruise into either Milford or Doubtful Sound, but if you’re short on time, a scenic flight from Queenstown is an option you won’t regret. Either can be booked in advance through WEXAS.
Stewart Island
Further south still is the tiny town of Bluff, best known for its oysters but also the jumping-off point for ferries to Stewart Island, though it may be worth flying if you’re worried about seasickness (direct flights are available from Dunedin). New Zealand’s third island is completely different to its larger neighbours. With just 15km of road, exploration is more often done by foot. Another of the Great Walks, the Rakiura Track, leads visitors across open coast before climbing over a 300m forested ridge and traversing the shores of Paterson Inlet. It’s also the best place to spot kiwis in the wild.
The return journey
From Queenstown, if you’re not heading east to Dunedin - which besides being home to the world’s steepest street offers access to the wildlife haven of the Otago Peninsula - the most scenic drive is to head back into the Alps via Twizel to Mount Cook or Lake Tekapo, whose turquoise colour must be seen to be believed. From there, it’s a gentle run in across the Canterbury Plains back to Christchurch and the airport.
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